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Senior editor Bruce Sanderson joined Wine Spectator in 1993. His tasting beats are Burgundy in France and Piedmont and Tuscany in Italy.
Bruce Sanderson

A Barometer for a Great Vintage in Burgundy

Ghislaine Barthod Bourgogne Rouge Les Bons Batons 2005

Bruce Sanderson
Posted: August 13, 2012

The 2005 vintage of red Burgundy was excellent, and I wanted to have some to enjoy 20 years down the road. I bought as much as I could afford, but I also bought at all quality levels.

First of all, in years like 2009, 2005 and 1999, when Burgundy enjoys a warm growing season, regional wines like Bourgogne get ripe and can be delicious from the best growers. Secondly, these wines are good barometers for gauging when the higher-level wines will be ready to enjoy.

I hadn’t tried a 2005 in some time, so I opened a bottle of Bourgogne Rouge Les Bons Batons from Ghislaine Barthod ($36). Limpid garnet in color, it offered beautiful aromas of cherry, currant and violet, all very pure. On the palate, it was ripe and supple, with red and black fruit flavors holding court, backed by a firm yet harmonious structure. Overall, it was concentrated and long, but silky and not at all heavy. 90 points, non-blind.

Though this is drinking well and hitting its peak, I may wait another year or two before opening a village-level or premier cru red Burgundy.

WineSpectator.com members: Get scores and tasting notes for more 2005 red Burgundies, plus for more recently rated vintages of Burgundy.

Heard Slade
Detroit, MI USA —  October 30, 2013 3:02pm ET
The last Burgundy I had was in the 70's; a Hearty Burgundy; big bottle, probably Gallo or Inglenook. I have become interested in the new light being shed on the Burgundy wines. Where to start? I usually buy in the $20 - $40. range. I like Cab's and Merlots.

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