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Managing editor Kim Marcus joined Wine Spectator in 1988. His tasting beats include Austria, Greece, southern France and Portugal.
Kim Marcus

A Hearty White from Central Greece

Dougos Estate Methistanes 2006

Kim Marcus
Posted: June 20, 2012

News of Greece’s imminent collapse may dominate the headlines these days, but some good news is coming out of this ancient land as well. Leading the way is the improving quality of Greek wines, mostly notably the country’s whites. Near where I live in Queens, there is a large Greek community in the neighborhood of Astoria—a place where you can buy little-known Greek wines, made from some of the hundreds of unheralded grape varieties that call Greece home. It’s a great place for exploration.

Recently, I took the plunge and bought a white from the Thessaly region on the Greek mainland. The Methistanes 2006, from the family-owned Dougos Estate, is a blend of two indigenous varieties: the more commonly known Roditis, which features high acidity, and a new variety for me, Batiki, which calls Thessaly home and is known for its delicacy.

This golden-hued blend is medium-bodied, with ripe peach flavors, creamy elements and some almond and mineral notes that take on a smoky, mature edge. With its touches of richness and freshness, this wine is a fine match for seafood, pork or poultry. I rated it 87 points, non-blind, and it costs $12 a bottle.

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