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Executive editor Thomas Matthews joined Wine Spectator in 1988. His tasting beat is Spain.
Thomas Matthews

A Crisp, Affordable White Burgundy

Domaine Marcillet Bourgogne Aligoté 2007

Thomas Matthews
Posted: November 18, 2009

My wife, Sara, and I were coming home on Saturday evening after a visit to the Tenement Museum, on New York’s Lower East Side, and stopped into our local wine shop. We were looking for something to accompany the chicken crèpes with Mornay sauce that Nancy, her mother, was making for dinner. Our salesperson suggested an Aligoté. It was already chilled.

“It’s clean and crisp and will be a refreshing match for the creamy sauce,” he said. “And it comes from a small family domaine that’s practicing organic.”

Aligoté is Burgundy’s “other white grape.” It’s grown where Chardonnay can’t flourish, and makes a lean, minerally wine that’s often sweetened with crème de cassis to make a “kir,” the local aperitif. This one showed exactly as promised, its acidity accentuated by the cool growing season of 2007. I rated it 88 points, non-blind, and considered it a good value for $16.

WineSpectator.com members: Get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated Aligoté bottlings from Burgundy, plus our quick list of Top Values in white Burgundy.

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