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Executive editor Thomas Matthews joined Wine Spectator in 1988. His tasting beat is Spain.
Thomas Matthews

A Northern White with Southern Pork

S.A. Prüm Riesling QbA Mosel Essence 2007

Thomas Matthews
Posted: July 21, 2009

I truly knew I was in the South when I ate pork for the fourth meal in a row.

Every summer, I spend two weeks of vacation on Edisto Beach in South Carolina with my wife, Sara, and her southern family. We had pulled-pork barbecue, ham with grits, BLTs and were sitting down to a slow-cooked pork shoulder roast with squash casserole and sliced tomatoes. I could feel myself beginning to relax.

I generally pick up a couple of cases of value-priced wine for the stay, mostly clean, dry whites. I noticed an S.A. Prüm Riesling from the Mosel in the store in Charleston where I like to shop, knew that 2007 was an excellent vintage for Germany, and figured $11 was a reasonable gamble.

Prüm is one of the great names in the Mosel. The historic estate was divided in 1911, and while Joh. Jos. Prüm is perhaps better known today, S.A. Prüm is also making fine wines under the leadership of Raimund Prüm, winemaker since 1971.

S.A. Prüm’s Essence is 100 percent Riesling, harvested from mostly younger vines from its estate in Mosel, fermented in stainless steel and bottled under screw cap. The 2007 was light and refreshing (with only 10.5 percent alcohol), fruity but dry, with pretty flavors of apricot and citrus. It made a delightful contrast with the savory pork and the sweet squash, and everyone found it a satisfactory switch from beer. I rated it 85 points, non-blind.

WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind tasting review for S.A. Prüm Riesling QbA Mosel Essence 2007 (83, $12).

• Plus, get our quick lists of Top Values among German Rieslings and top Wineries for Value in Germany.

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