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Restaurant Spotlight: Panama

A serious wine program in a German restaurant based on childhood wonder
In Berlin, Panama offers a 490-label wine list in a bright, welcoming space.
Photo by: Philipp Langenheim & Corina Schadendorf
In Berlin, Panama offers a 490-label wine list in a bright, welcoming space.

Posted: August 16, 2018

Restaurateurs often draw influence from people, places and ingredients, but at Panama in Berlin, the source of inspiration is less traditional. The concept is inspired by a popular German children’s book, “The Trip to Panama,” by author and illustrator Janosch. It’s about feeling at home in an exotic wonderland, and Panama echoes this theme with an adventurous menu in a bright space that still feels laidback and approachable. Chef Sophia Rudolph’s seasonal cuisine includes creative plates like radishes with buttermilk and smoked granola, green pea soup with kimchi and chorizo, and lamb shoulder with tamarind and green beans. Wine director Nicholas Pratt oversees the Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence–winning list of 490 selections that excel in Germany but also offer strengths in France and Italy. Owner Ludwig Cramer-Klett also owns Award of Excellence winner Katz Orange in Berlin. Both restaurants are part of Contemporary Food Lab, a program that hosts educational programs on humans’ relationships with nature and food.

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