Mollydooker will again be the last winery to pick in McLaren Vale—a choice that produces big, bold wines, much to the consternation of those who believe Australia should be moving toward cooler-climate or earlier-picked grapes to produce lighter-style wines. Sparky and Sarah Marquis don't care. They're selling everything they can make, all 70,000 cases, most of it in the United States. Though they haven't quite met demand since their first vintage in 2005, they have no intention of ramping up production. A previous venture went bust when it got too big. Wine Spectator's Harvey Steiman explains.