As much as any person in the 20th century, André Tchelistcheff shaped the future of California wine. Russian by birth, with a thick accent and bushy eyebrows, he once described his life as a series of accidents. One of those took him from Paris to Rutherford in 1938, when a Frenchman, Georges de Latour, persuaded him to work at his Napa Valley winery. Beaulieu Vineyard needed a winemaker and de Latour was searching for one in France. He wanted the best. Wine Spectator's James Laube explains.