Sushi has been chef Jiro Ono's life for more than 60 years. Now 87 years old, he exemplifies the dedication and single-minded passion for perfection that the craft requires. In Tokyo, where sushi was born and now flourishes, no sushi chef is more venerated. And sushi may appear simple, but there is much more to it than meets the eye. Wine Spectator's Harvey Steiman explains.