Nothing quite prepares you for the sheer beauty of Portugal's Douro Valley. Terraced vineyards twist their way down from the ridges and mountains that flank the Douro River. This is as good as wine country scenery gets. And in the past five years, stylish new wine hotels have opened in Porto and on Douro wine estates and talented young chefs have launched restaurants that are helping to modernize northern Portugal's often stodgy cuisine. Wine quality is on the upswing as well. Wine Spectator's Robert Camuto explains.