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Dear Dr. Vinny,

In a nice steak house I ordered a bottle of wine that cost $95. It was served in rather small, inexpensive wine glasses. The table next to us was served a bottle in nice Riedel stemware. When leaving, I questioned the manager and was told that only wines over $100 were served in the better stemware. I told him their policy is absurd. What do you think?

—Bill Tennant, Lake Placid

Dear Bill,

It's not just absurd ... it's criminal! Any restaurant worth its salt should provide ample stemware, no matter what you spend on the wine. Wine at all levels is meant to be enjoyed, not sipped from a thimble. It needn't be the most expensive crystal, but at least something large enough for you to swirl and sniff without endangering the tablecloth.

—Dr. Vinny

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