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mixed case: opinion and advice archive

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Mixed Case

June 2013

The Most Interesting Thing About New Beer, from the Wine Side
Single-hop beers allow consumers to understand specific ingredients
Posted: Jun 27, 2013 10:40am ET
By Jennifer Fiedler

Among the beer-drinking community, the ongoing "winification" of beer—750ml bottles, beer sommeliers, ultra-high-alcohol products—is a fairly controversial phenomenon. But looking at this development from the wine side of things, one facet is particularly interesting: the rise of single-hop beers.

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Legalize It: Why Sugar Additions Should Be Allowed in California Wine
The state's law against chaptalization is antiquated, useless and an insult to the growing diversity of the state's terroirs
Posted: Jun 20, 2013 10:45am ET
By Ben O'Donnell

"We have chaptalized. We have done in it California, on rare occasions, but we have, and we've done it in wines from Oregon, again on fairly rare occasions." That's probably not something you'd expect to hear from any veteran winemaker, much less Adam Lee, co-owner of Siduri and Novy Family, whose current releases total 37 single-vineyard and appellation bottlings, from the Sta. Rita Hills in California's Central Coast up to the Chehalem Mountains, in Oregon's Willamette Valley. After all, in California, chaptalization—the addition of sugar during fermentation—has long been illegal.

It's time to change that.

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The Battle Against Vinegar
Wine is a gift from nature, but it's mankind's job to safeguard it
Posted: Jun 18, 2013 10:10am ET
By Mitch Frank

Every third day, I play my version of wine roulette, uncorking a bottle I first opened two days earlier and seeing if the last one or two glasses worth of wine at the bottom still taste good. Most recently it was a bottle of RdV Vineyards Lost Mountain Red, a lovely Bordeaux blend from Virginia's emerging Middleburg area. (RdV employs Eric Boissenot, a Bordeaux winemaking consultant I profiled in our June 30 issue.)

When faced with an unfinished bottle, I shove the cork back into place and put the bottle in the fridge. I know, I could pour the leftover wine into a smaller bottle or try some fancy inert-gas device; some of my colleagues have been known to freeze leftover wine. But I've settled on the cork-it-and-cool-it technique, and it works most of the time if I drink the wine within three days. Sadly, this time it failed. The RdV was bright at first, but the finish held a touch of vinegar. It wasn't the wine's fault—it was probably too much air and not enough wine.

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