Veuve Ambal Brut Crémant de Bourgogne Grande Cuvée NV (90 points, $20)
A toasty version, laced with vanilla, pastry cream and spice notes, this is enlivened by racy acidity that creates a mouthwatering frame for the poached quince, apricot and candied ginger flavors. Drink now through 2022. 100,000 cases made, 5,000 cases imported. From France.—Alison Napjus
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