Wine sells on romance. And we're all susceptible to it—very likely wine writers like Wine Spectator's Matt Kramer most of all. We're susceptible not merely because we want to believe in magic, but because there really is romance to wine, most especially fine wine. The earth really can speak through fine wine. But can it speak with its mouth full of gum arabic? Good question. And we can't know the answer to that question without ingredient labeling.
From the Oct 15, 2014, issue