Two German Winemakers Team Up With South African Newcomer

Two German producers famed for their white wines have branched out to produce a new red wine in South Africa. Bernhard Breuer of Georg Breuer and Bernd Philippi of Koehler-Ruprecht recently teamed up with a Johannesburg lawyer, Stephan du Toit, to produce Mont-du-Toit, a new label from the Wellington wine region.

The first release of Mont-du-Toit, from the 1998 vintage, is a blend of estate-grown and purchased Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes -- a far cry from the Rieslings that Breuer and Philippi produce in their respective regions, the Rheingau and the Pfalz.

Since we make white wines at home, it is more interesting to make reds abroad; it is an enlargement of our knowledge and cultural background," said Breuer. The Mont-du-Toit venture is not the first time the two German vintners have been involved with red wine production -- at home, they also make a small quantity of Pinot Noir. Also, they have been wine consultants in Madeira for the past 15 years.

In 1997, du Toit -- a wine-industry newcomer who is planning to retire from law soon -- bought a 69-acre property in the town of Wellington, about 30 miles northwest of Capetown. At the time, the estate was planted mainly to white grape varieties, which were sold to the local cooperative. However, red varieties are expected to fare better in Wellington's warm climate, which resembles that of southern Europe.

Consequently, most of du Toit's white vines are being grafted over to red grapes (a process that results in the vines losing one year of production), and some of the land is being replanted. "In three years, we will have 30 hectares [about 74 acres] planted, and within six years, we'll be in full production," said Breuer, who expects to be making 12,500 cases of wine at that point.

Breuer and Philippi come down to the farm about twice a year to join on-site winemaker Peter Neil in overseeing the harvest and the blending of the wine. Du Toit, whose wife comes from Hamburg, Germany, asked Breuer and Philippi to be long-term consultants for his winery, from its conception onward, because he likes their winemaking philosophy.

"We have a low-tech production. Our entire philosophy relies on growing the right grapes, keeping the yields down, doing 'green harvesting' [pruning away excessive amounts of grapes] and being very meticulous about selection during the handpicked harvest," explained Breuer.

Only 1,000 cases of the 1998 Mont-du-Toit were produced, along with 150 cases of Special Reserve. The Special Reserve bottling spends the same amount of time in wood as the regular Mont-du-Toit, but is selected from the best barrels and will be made only in the best years.

The 1999 Mont-du-Toit, not yet released, will also include Malbec and Cabernet Franc in the blend. "If you choose the right grape varieties," Breuer said, "you can create a unique style, which is more interesting than producing yet another international-style Cabernet Sauvignon."

There will be no Special Reserve from 1999, but there will be a second label, Havaquas, named after the chain of mountains that are visible from the farm.

The Mont-du-Toit wines are not currently available in the United States, but Breuer's importer, Seattle-based Classical Wines, plans to bring 500 six-bottle cases into the country in June. Retail prices are expected to be around $35 per bottle for the Mont-du-Toit and under $20 for the Havaquas; a price has not yet been set for the Special Reserve.

Check out recent ratings of Georg Breuer and Koehler-Ruprecht wines.

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