The Vintage Variations

The peaks and valleys of vintage quality in Italy have diminished, but turning a difficult season into a success comes at a cost

The Vintage Variations
Senior editor Bruce Sanderson (David Yellen)
From the Jun 30, 2021, issue

Senior editor Bruce Sanderson first became interested in wine during the 1970s. In the decades leading up to and including the ’70s, it seemed like a great vintage came along one year in 10, maybe two. Similarly, there were one or two, even three, terrible years.

Since 1988 the peaks and valleys from vintage to vintage have diminished. Warmer weather, combined with better viticulture, the latter a result of increased technology, more conscientious farming and stricter selection at harvest, has raised the bar. Thanks to these factors, there are no bad vintages anymore, just more expensive ones.

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