No word in wine today is more likely to provoke than "natural." The term is meant to connote a lack of intervention, especially in winemaking. But, of course, by its very action, winemaking involves a degree of that very thing. Proponents who embrace the term are zealous. Those offended by it are nearly rabid in their resentments. Wine Spectator's Matt Kramer explains.
From the Oct 15, 2013, issue
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