At Quinta do Noval, managing director Christian Seely is proving that Port, just as any other great wine, fortified or not, is shaped inexorably by its terroir. By merging tradition with modernity over a 25-year run, he has put this property back among the elite Port producers. It's fitting that Noval would assert itself as a standard-bearer not just for quality Vintage Port but for terroir as well. Wine Spectator's James Molesworth explains.
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