The Phoenix and the French Laundry
On a warm July evening in 1994, Thomas Keller threw open the doors to The French Laundry. It had taken him 19 months to raise the money to buy it, exponentially longer than he'd expected, during which time he constantly dreaded losing it. Some smart chef or real estate investor, he knew, could sweep in and snatch up the 19th-century building where he hoped to create a restaurant and find success at last.
Member-Only Content
Premium SubscriptionJoin today and get immediate access to this article, and to our entire database of more than 400,000 wine ratings. It only takes moments—but it will help you drink better all year long.
Already a member? Sign In

Try Winespectator.com Free for 30 Days!
Full access to our database of more than 400,000 wine ratings
Early access to reviews on our editors' favorite just-rated wines
Wine and food pairing tool,
chefs' pairing recommendations
Best value wines and winery intel
Subscribe today