The Mother of Direct-Trade Coffee

In the mountains of Guatemala, the coffee beans of the Manos Campesinas cooperative grow. That aromatic, rich coffee has a satisfying mouthfeel that lingers. This coffee is unusual in another way: The beans are roasted and sold by Pachamama Coffee Cooperative, a fair-trade company that is redefining the scope of "direct-trade" coffee. Wine Spectator's Mark Pendergrast explains.