Perhaps more than any other wine in the world, Champagne is about style. Not just in the runway sense, but also in the ways a winemaker chooses to present his grapes and land in his wines. RM winemakers emphasize the importance of letting a wine show its terroir, but in Champagne, there’s hardly a consensus on how best to go about this. The result is the unprecedented diversity found among Champagnes today.
From the Dec 31, 2011, issue