Small Champagnes Hit the Big Time

In a region known for big houses, grower-producers make their brand off their land
From the Dec 31, 2011, issue

Perhaps more than any other wine in the world, Champagne is about style. Not just in the runway sense, but also in the ways a winemaker chooses to present his grapes and land in his wines. RM winemakers emphasize the importance of letting a wine show its terroir, but in Champagne, there’s hardly a consensus on how best to go about this. The result is the unprecedented diversity found among Champagnes today.

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