Sicilian Craftsman

Pino Cuttaia cooks his way to the top of Italian gastronomy by sticking to his roots
From the Oct 31, 2014, issue

Fourteen years ago, chef Pino Cuttaia opened his own restaurant, called La Madia (The Cupboard), in a working-class neighborhood in his native Licata, an old commercial and fishing port on Sicily's south coast. National critical acclaim and two Michelin stars followed. So too did a broad base of Italian and international clientele, some of whom travel great distances to eat his masterful, playful takes on traditional Sicilian food, served in a setting that reflects the sensibilities of the chef himself—subdued and unpretentious. Wine Spectator's Robert Camuto explains.

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