Fourteen years ago, chef Pino Cuttaia opened his own restaurant, called La Madia (The Cupboard), in a working-class neighborhood in his native Licata, an old commercial and fishing port on Sicily's south coast. National critical acclaim and two Michelin stars followed. So too did a broad base of Italian and international clientele, some of whom travel great distances to eat his masterful, playful takes on traditional Sicilian food, served in a setting that reflects the sensibilities of the chef himself—subdued and unpretentious. Wine Spectator's Robert Camuto explains.
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