On a greenery-lined Main Street in the Cape Cod town of Dennis, Mass., Scargo Café has been in business since 1987. It’s owned by brothers David and Peter Troutman, and the staff has become an extended family of sorts, with each employee’s name and picture listed on the website, plus a designated page for “alumni.” Though the homey spot has long been a cornerstone of the community, the restaurant ramped up its wine program over the past decade, earning its first Wine Spectator Award of Excellence in 2010. Food-and-beverage manager Matt Grady has grown the selection count from 35 to 170, with consulting help from Jon Troutman, Peter’s son. The program aims to offer world-class producers at affordable prices and, indeed, the list is brimming with values. Most bottles are priced under $100, including many under $50, and none of the two dozen wines by the glass exceed $13. The labels comprise a mix of regions and styles and, while they’re strongest in France, California and Italy, countries such as Portugal, Germany and Austria are represented as well. The diversity is meant to reflect chef Janet Wright’s menu, where items range from Asian-inspired starters like honey-garlic chicken wings and ginger-shrimp salad to inventive Italian options like a scampi flatbread and sirloin with parmesan and white truffle oil.
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