F.X. Pichler Drops Long-Established Wachau Classification System from Its Labels

Renowned Austrian producer walks away from the Vinea Wachau Association it helped found in 1983, adopts country's terroir-focused DAC regulations in light of climate change

F.X. Pichler Drops Long-Established Wachau Classification System from Its Labels
Lucas, left, and F.X. Pichler feel the old Wachau system of classifying wines by ripeness no longer works in a warming climate where grapes fully ripen every year. (Marcus Rössle)
Oct 16, 2020

In a sign of Austrian wine evolving with the climate, F.X. Pichler, one of the leading wineries in the Wachau region, is quitting the winemaker association Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus. The winery will no longer use the association's designated classification categories for dry white wines by ripeness, such as Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd, starting with the 2020 vintage.

Lucas Pichler, currently in charge of the estate, made the decision with his father, Franz Xaver Pichler. He felt that Vinea Wachau should have been updating its rules now that the Austrian government has approved the Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) system for use in the Wachau as of the 2020 vintage.

The DAC regulations, introduced elsewhere in Austria beginning in the early 2000s, are similar in principle to France's Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system, rather than Vinea Wachau's focus on defining wine styles by ripeness levels. The DAC structure consists of three tiers: Gebietswein (regional wine), Ortswein ("village" wine) and Riedenwein (single-vineyard wine).

"The introduction of the DAC regulations would have been the right moment to revise the Vinea guidelines—such as a limit on the descriptor Smaragd to the finest sites or the elimination of the 'sugar' categories, which global warming has made obsolete anyways," said Pichler.


Stay on top of important wine stories with Wine Spectator's free Breaking News Alerts.


Pichler explained that back in the 1980s, production of Smaragd wine was only possible in warm years and the best sites, as grapes would struggle to get ripe. Today, it is harder to produce Steinfeder, the lowest category in Wachau's ripeness classification of white wines, made from the least-ripe grapes with a mandated maximum alcohol level of 11.5 percent. Smaragd-designated wines are made from the ripest grapes in the Wachau, with a mandated minimum alcohol level of 12.5 percent. Global warming means more wines are meeting that threshold. "Now, after 37 years, you can produce a Smaragd wine in every vineyard and every year, so for us, it makes no sense anymore to name our wines Smaragd," said Pichler.

F.X. Pichler was one of the original members of Vinea Wachau when the association was founded back in 1983, together with renowned producers Franz Hirtzberger, Prager, Jamek, Domäne Wachau and Knoll. Soon thereafter, the group introduced the Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd trademarks. But Pichler has always focused on showing the terroir through its wines. "We want to show with our wines the terroir in our best vineyards, no matter how high the sugar level is when we reach the physiological ripeness," said Pichler.

This decision comes as no surprise considering global warming and the shift in style. This is especially true when one looks at Austria's neighbor, Germany. Here, more and more producers are adopting the "French system" introduced by the VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikats- und Qualitätsweingüter), which focuses on terroir and specific sites, and dropping the Prädikatswein system, which focuses on ripeness levels. Pichler believes that the weather and the vineyard will determine which wine style will be produced, "like in Germany and maybe also in Burgundy."

News Austria 2020 Appellation Regulations Labeling Regulations

You Might Also Like

Flavanol-Rich Diet, Including Wine, Linked to Lower Blood Pressure

Flavanol-Rich Diet, Including Wine, Linked to Lower Blood Pressure

A new study finds that moderate consumption of wine, tea and other sources of flavanols can …

Oct 28, 2020
Finding a Silver Lining in Napa: A Live Chat with Andy Erickson

Finding a Silver Lining in Napa: A Live Chat with Andy Erickson

The former Screaming Eagle winemaker and star consultant talks about his journey to Napa, …

Oct 26, 2020
Wine Spectator Announces New Executive Editor

Wine Spectator Announces New Executive Editor

Thomas Matthews will step down from his longtime role; Jeffery Lindenmuth will move over to …

Nov 15, 2020
Ken Evenstad, Co-Founder of Oregon's Domaine Serene Winery, Dies at 77

Ken Evenstad, Co-Founder of Oregon's Domaine Serene Winery, Dies at 77

After building his fortune in pharmaceuticals, Evenstad and his wife, Grace, helped create …

Oct 30, 2020
The Social Distance Vintage: Harvest in Bordeaux

The Social Distance Vintage: Harvest in Bordeaux

While picking required creativity and an ocean of hand sanitizer, leading château owners …

Oct 23, 2020
Landmark Restaurant Commander’s Palace Makes History with New Chef

Landmark Restaurant Commander’s Palace Makes History with New Chef

The New Orleans Grand Award winner appoints its first female lead in the kitchen. Plus, …

Oct 22, 2020