Bottles ruined by cork taint frustrate everyone. Despite the success so many top wineries have had with twist-offs, there are those who balk at using them. Domaine Serene stuck with cork when many of its prominent neighbors went all-in for the screwcap.

Stalwarts such as Chehalem, WillaKenzie, Willamette Valley Vineyards, Maysara, Patton Valley, Raptor Ridge, Boedecker, Sineann, Siduri, Argyle and Roco consistently rate in the 90-plus range ("Outstanding" on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale) in my tastings, employing twist-offs. Ponzi, Erath, Trisaetum and Penner Ash use them for white wines. But Ken and Grace Evenstad, Domaine Serene's owners, could not bring themselves to join that trend.