Minefield in the Cellar

A wave of prematurely oxidized bottles of white Burgundy threatens the reputation of the region, but the problem may reach much further
Dec 15, 2012

Sommelier Patrick Cappiello, now of New York's Gilt, had come across bottles of unexpectedly oxidized white Burgundy from the 1998 vintage while working at Tribeca Grill. But in 2007, while revamping the Burgundy-heavy wine list at New York's Veritas, he experienced what he calls a "disaster" moment. Nearly everyone who handles collectible wines seems to have encountered numerous bad bottles of white Burgundy, and wondered if perhaps it was a symptom of a larger epidemic within the region. Wine Spectator's Jennifer Fiedler explains.

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