Mezcal Matures

Mezcal Matures
Third-generation master "mezcalero" Rogelio Mateo piles "espadin" agave hearts in a stone oven prior to fermentation and distillation. (OMAR TORRES/AFP/Getty Images)
From the May 31, 2018, issue

Mezcal has seen meteoric growth in the U.S. over the past five years, but it's still a blip on the radar, moving only 2 percent the volume of tequila. Still, that may be part of the attraction. Wine Spectator's Jack Bettridge explains.

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