Margaret River’s Cabernet Kings

Cullen, Vasse Felix and Cloudburst up the region’s game
Margaret River’s Cabernet Kings
Cullen's Diana Madeline bottling is one of Margaret River's star Cabernets. (Frances Andrijich)
Mar 4, 2016

Historically vineyards on the north side, in the Wilyabrup subregion, have had the edge on Cabernet in Margaret River. Cullen's Diana Madeline bottling is the acknowledged star, the result of Vanya Cullen's dedication to biodynamic viticulture on a remarkable site in the heart of the subregion. That bottling is always a mix that includes Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

I didn't pass up a rare chance to taste a 1982 Cabernet blend, which displayed the same sort of tannins and smoky overtones to cherry flavors as more recent bottlings. Elegant and long, it was expressive with espresso and dark chocolate overtones, earthy notes, and impressive persistence.

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