In 1979, David Hirsch, now 69, bought 1,000 acres of sheep farm up on a craggy ridge above the Pacific Ocean in Sonoma County. Then he had to decide what to do with it. George Bohan had planted grapes in the area previously, but Hirsch was a pioneer in what would become the Sonoma Coast appellation. Wine Spectator's James Molesworth explains.
From the Oct 15, 2013, issue
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