Lodi is a good place to grow grapes—some might say too good. The area's 110,000 acres of vineyards and 800 grapegrowing families are a main engine of California's wine industry. But especially in the past two decades, a growing number of family farmers have started their own wineries. It's a quiet movement that has been gaining momentum, and as a result, Lodi's identity is evolving. Wine Spectator's Aaron Romano explains.
From the Dec 15, 2018, issue