It's not hard to find good food on the Hawaiian island of Maui, whether it's a traditional "plate lunch" or more ambitious modern cuisine. Mark and Judy Ellman, at the helm of a growing restaurant dynasty that includes Migrant, Mala Ocean Tavern and Honu, strive to add flair to dishes without straying from the island's casual style. Wine Spectator's Harvey Steiman explains.
From the Jul 31, 2014, issue
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