Haves and Have-Nots in Bordeaux Vineyards

Bordeaux is home to fabulous châteaus, but most of its average annual production of 800 million bottles comes from small producers in humble appellations. Over the past two decades, the gap between the price of the region's prestigious vineyards and their less renowned counterparts has grown. A new report by the regional Office for Food, Agriculture and Forests looking at land prices has found that the five leading Bordeaux appellations account for just 5 percent of the vineyard land in the region of Aquitaine, but represent more than 50 percent of its value. Those appellations-Pomerol, Margaux, St.-Julien, St.-Estèphe and Pauillac-exported 10 percent of the wines from the region by volume in 2008, but 50 percent by value.