Gamay Time

The indigenous grape of Beaujolais makes charming, expressive reds

Gamay Time
Most of the top-scoring Beaujolais reviewed in 2020 come from the Moulin-à-Vent cru, where winemakers like Matthieu Mangenot of Albert Bichot are making complex, expressive reds. (Flore Deronzier)
From the Dec 31, 2020, issue

With its staggering geological diversity, Beaujolais has become a playground for serious winemakers who want to make terroir-driven Gamays. With vineyard land that is relatively affordable, the region is witnessing an impressive rise in young winemaking talent as well as an influx of outside investors. For both groups, the region’s fresh, minerally reds speak to the current movement toward more elegant styles. Associate editor Gillian Sciaretta explores how the wines have grown to stand on their own and recommends the best of the recent releases from the 2017 and 2018 vintages.

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