France Bans an Old Culinary Tradition

From the Jun 30, 1999, issue
June 30, 1999 France Bans an Old Culinary Tradition For centuries, a rite of passage for French gourmets has been the eating of the ortolan. These tiny birds -- captured alive, force-fed, then drowned in Armagnac -- were roasted whole and eaten that way, bones and all, while the diner draped his head with a linen napkin to preserve the precious aromas and, some believe, to hide from God.

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