Didier Seguier was happy the cold, bright January morning I visited William Fèvre. Coming off the success of the brilliant 2014 vintage, the domaine's director was pleased with the new wines from the 2015 harvest.
"It's a year that conserved good freshness [despite the heat]," he said, uncorking the first wine. "It has better acidity and tension than 2009 and good aging potential." Seguier was referring to another hot year, where Chablis runs the risk of losing its vibrant, steely character and mineral underpinning.