Though the Netherlands is the world's second biggest exporter of whole cow's milk cheese (after Germany), most of what we see in the United States is mass-produced Gouda and Edam encased in red paraffin. But there are bright spots, such as Roomano, a Gouda aged for up to six years that could easily be mistaken for Parmigiano-Reggiano, and Delft Blue, a creamy and sweet cheese you might think is a Gorgonzola.
From the May 31, 2010, issue
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