Bordeaux Looks for Lessons in 2009 Futures Sales

Wines sold well overseas, while American retailers exceeded low expectations
Sep 8, 2010

The circus has left town. The dust has settled after one of the most discussed, most fretted over and certainly the priciest Bordeaux futures campaign ever. There were many question marks when the campaign kicked off in late June, but one loomed largest: Would anyone buy the wines at these prices? Three months later, the answer is yes—but the picture is complicated.

“I was very skeptical,” said Nikos Antonakeas, managing director of Morrell & Co. in New York. “I bought accordingly, which was about 50 percent of what I bought in ’05, and was selling right at those levels.” But, he added, “[My customers] all mumbled, ‘You’d better not call another year like this one for awhile.’”

Among a sampling of 23 top wines representative of the vintage, prices at major U.S. retail outlets exceeded those of the 2005 vintage by 86 percent. (See chart of retail prices for leading properties below.) Some stateside sellers worried that with a twitchy economy and Asian markets potentially poised to pick up American slack, the campaign would scuttle itself on U.S. shores. But Jeff Zacharia, president of Zachys in Scarsdale, N.Y., sees the same old story in these concerns. “For the past 30 years we have had customers unhappy with the new prices," he said. "But most continue to buy, and for those who do not, there always seems to be someone to take their place.”

Leading Bordeaux négociants tell Wine Spectator that sales to the U.S. were down compared to past big vintages like 2005. Sales to European markets, especially London, and Asian markets, such as Singapore, Tokyo, Seoul and Hong Kong, easily made up for the difference. Mainland China, a young market for futures, also showed growth. “2008 was the first year we experienced any real interest amongst the mainland Chinese consumers for en primeur,” said Don St. Pierre, Jr., CEO of the distributor ASC Greater China. “2009 marked a significant increase in that level of interest among wealthy Chinese clients. This was the year when we saw people really try to understand what this whole futures thing is about.”

Because many top U.S. retailers expected a diminished campaign, they ordered cautiously and expressed pleasant surprise when the wines sold, if at a slower pace and more modest levels than in the 2005 campaign. “The U.S. market was much stronger than I expected,” said Zacharia. Certain wines—top scorers who kept their release prices close to $100—sold through much more aggressively than others. Retailers cite Léoville-Barton, Lynch-Bages, Léoville Poyferré and Pontet-Canet, among others.

Pontet-Canet’s owner, Alfred Tesseron, priced his wines with an eye toward the long term. “[Pontet-Canet] was sold at roughly one-tenth of a first-growth price, giving the consumer quality recognized on a similar level or even considered better than certain first-growths," he said. "Our price was fair and it reinforced Pontet-Canet's friendships throughout the world, which gives us confidence for the future.”

Despite overall success, some U.S. retailers saw longtime supporters of Bordeaux forced to the sidelines. “Everybody’s interested in them when they hear about what a great vintage it is,” said Mark Wessels, managing director of Macarthur Beverages in Washington, D.C., “[But] they say, ‘Geez Mark, I really wanted to buy a case of Cos-d’Estournel, but now I’m either not going to buy any, or I’m only going to buy three, four, five bottles instead.’ The traditional fan base, even if they can afford the wine, remember when it was a $40 or $50 bottle of wine and have a moral problem with paying $300 for a bottle of it.”

Plenty of other customers didn't, however. And Antonakeas believes that some exorbitant prices ironically muscled out those who might have bought the wines to resell them. “At $300 for Ducru-Beaucaillou, what am I going to do with it? I’m going to drink it,” he said.

“If you bought them to try to make money on them, I think you made an unwise investment,” said Wessels. The retailer consensus is that while top wines should hold their prices, few, if any, will appreciate in the near future.

And the high 2009 prices give some retailers pause about Bordeaux’s prospects in the coming years. “The pricing? OK, they got away with this one,” said Antonakeas. But “an unfortunate image [of Bordeaux] that has now been many years in the making is: ‘my father’s kind of wine.’ Unless they get serious about giving Bordeaux a little bit of a luster of youth, something to put on your table without feeling that everybody had better be older than 65, they’re going to have a problem sooner or later.”

Inaccessible prices could prevent “30-year-olds who are just coming up making their money in the next 10 or 15 years from being excited and feeling positive about Bordeaux,” said Antonakeas.

Château 2005 2009 Change
Ausone $1,375 $1,827 33%
Carruades $57 $279 389%
Cheval-Blanc $737 $1,211 64%
L'Église Clinet $111 $169 52%
Cos-d'Estournel $197 $309 57%
Ducru-Beaucaillou $174 $260 49%
Figeac $112 $243 117%
Haut-Brion $571 $1,007 76%
La Mission-Haut-Brion $325 $853 162%
Lafite Rothschild $622 $1,553 150%
Latour $766 $1,470 92%
Léoville Barton $95 $102 7%
Léoville Poyferré $91 $167 84%
Lynch-Bages $81 $128 58%
Malescot-St.-Exupéry $73 $94 29%
Margaux $728 $1,053 45%
Montrose $106 $208 96%
Mouton-Rothschild $573 $940 64%
Palmer $246 $316 28%
Pétrus $2,563 $2,544 -1%
Pontet-Canet $82 $136 66%
Smith-Haut-Lafitte $66 $96 45%
Trotanoy $146 $449 208%

Note: Prices are average retail futures prices from leading U.S. retailers.

More Bordeaux Barrel Tastings 2009

See More

Despite Record Prices, Bordeaux 2009s Are Selling

Jun 24, 2010

Bordeaux's 2009 Vintage Looks Outstanding, But Will Anyone Buy?

Jun 7, 2010

2009 White Bordeaux

Apr 8, 2010

2009 Sauternes & Barsac

Apr 7, 2010

Be Happy

Apr 5, 2010

Economy France Bordeaux 2009 Bordeaux Barrel Tastings 2009 News

You Might Also Like

Finding a Silver Lining in Napa: A Live Chat with Andy Erickson

Finding a Silver Lining in Napa: A Live Chat with Andy Erickson

The former Screaming Eagle winemaker and star consultant talks about his journey to Napa, …

Oct 26, 2020
Wine Spectator Announces New Executive Editor

Wine Spectator Announces New Executive Editor

Thomas Matthews will step down from his longtime role; Jeffery Lindenmuth will move over to …

Nov 15, 2020
Ken Evenstad, Co-Founder of Oregon's Domaine Serene Winery, Dies at 77

Ken Evenstad, Co-Founder of Oregon's Domaine Serene Winery, Dies at 77

After building his fortune in pharmaceuticals, Evenstad and his wife, Grace, helped create …

Oct 26, 2020
The Social Distance Vintage: Harvest in Bordeaux

The Social Distance Vintage: Harvest in Bordeaux

While picking required creativity and an ocean of hand sanitizer, leading château owners …

Oct 23, 2020
Landmark Restaurant Commander’s Palace Makes History with New Chef

Landmark Restaurant Commander’s Palace Makes History with New Chef

The New Orleans Grand Award winner appoints its first female lead in the kitchen. Plus, …

Oct 22, 2020
Opening Night During a Pandemic

Opening Night During a Pandemic

At a time when the hospitality industry is facing an unprecedented crisis, some restaurateu…

Oct 20, 2020