At 71 years old, Angelo Gaja shows no signs of slowing down. He walks quickly and always with purpose. He speaks rapidly and even when seated, he appears to be in motion. He still dreams big, but also manages to focus on all the minute details needed to make those dreams reality. You might suspect that his boundless energy would make Gaja exhausting to be around; however, his enthusiasm is infectious and his energy has a purpose. For 50 years he has used it to produce outstanding wines. In the process, he has helped change the global image of Italian wine. Wine Spectator's Mitch Frank explains.