A Hungarian Wine Triumphs with Razor Clams

Királyudvar Furmint Sec Tokaji 2007
Jun 3, 2011

Furmint is the grape that makes Tokaji, the luscious sweet wine of Hungary. It can also make a lively, distinctive and compelling dry white wine, as the forward-thinking winery Királyudvar has shown. My colleague Matt Kramer showed it at one of his Wine Experience presentations. The dry white reminds me a bit of Chablis in structure, with a ripe flavor profile but the same tangy balance.

So I was not surprised when the sommelier at Ria, a fine restaurant in Chicago, suggested Királyudvar Furmint Sec Tokaji 2007 ($15 by the glass, usually around $23 a bottle at retail) to match with a dish I had ordered, wild striped bass with razor clams, watercress and a jus flavored with Spanish jamon Ibérico. “It’s great with the razor clams,” he enthused. His recommendation hit the mark. The pineapple and mineral flavors in the wine (89 points, non-blind) cozied up perfectly with the slices of the clam, neatly stacked on its long shell as a garnish to the white-fleshed, meaty-textured fish.

WineSpectator.com members: Get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated dry and sweet wines from Hungary.

Hungary White Wines 2007

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