In 1989, long before he dreamed up Eataly and set an ambitious course in wine, Oscar Farinetti bought his first wine estate: Cantine del Castello di Santa Vittoria, not far from Barolo in the more modestly priced Roero zone. Of Farinetti's current wine investments, six are owned all or in part by Eataly. Farinetti and his team have taken different approaches to winemaking at each property. Wine Spectator's Robert Camuto reports.
From the Apr 30, 2013, issue