Log In / Join Now

what we're drinking now

Managing editor Kim Marcus joined Wine Spectator in 1988. His tasting beats include Austria, Greece, southern France and Portugal.
Kim Marcus

A Rich White from Italy for $25

Vini Pasetti Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Zarachè 2005

Kim Marcus
Posted: March 31, 2009

As you may know from my previous posting, I'm becoming a fast friend of the wines of Abruzzo, the mountainous region in central Italy that lies east of Rome. It provides excellent values in red wines, but during a recent lunch, I discovered that the Abruzzi whites can offer high quality as well.

I was dining with a friend at one of my favorite restaurants near our office in Manhattan, A Voce. My friend is looking for a way to channel her love of wine into a second career and wanted to get my advice. Her previous career had been working for Merrill Lynch, so she is obviously open to major changes. We talked for a while, and I told her that the best way is to get in on the ground floor in sales at a good restaurant or wine shop.

The eyes of A Voce sommelier Olivier Flosse lit up when I told him of my friend's desire. And my eyes lit up when he offered a white for just $25 a bottle to go with our lunch. It was a Trebbiano d'Abruzzo called Zarachè from Vini Pasetti. I was totally ignorant of Abruzzi whites, but at $25 I couldn't resist. My friend and I were well rewarded with a rich and creamy white, filled with glazed citrus and hints of peach (and just 13.5 percent alcohol). I rated it 90 points, non-blind.

According to my subsequent research, I learned that this white is not actually made from Trebbiano but from a grape called Bombino. The grapes are grown at about 1,800 feet in the Pescosansonesco district and are hand-picked. Fermentation and aging were done in stainless steel tanks, with no malolactic fermentation. It's true to the taste of Abruzzo's flavorful whites. I can't wait to visit this region someday.

Would you like to comment? Want to join or start a discussion?

Become a WineSpectator.com member and you can!
To protect the quality of our conversations, only members may submit comments. Member benefits include access to more than 315,000 reviews in our Wine Ratings Search; a first look at ratings in our Insider, Advance and Tasting Highlights; Value Wines; the Personal Wine List/My Cellar tool, hundreds of wine-friendly recipes and more.

WineRatings+ app: Download now for 340,000+ ratings.