Since Joseph Henriot purchased the Chablis estate of William Fèvre in 1998, the wines have steadily increased in quality. Today, under the direction of Didier Seguier, they are among the best in Chablis.
At 35.4 acres, the grand cru Bougros is one of the larger parcels within the seven grands crus of Chablis. Most of it has a gentle slope, but a small portion—from the front of the parcel to the main road—drops off very steeply. This is the Côte Bouguerots.
Fèvre has parcels in both parts of the Bougros. The Côte Bouguerots is stonier, and thus the wines are leaner in profile and more minerally in taste.
The 2004, which I purchased two years ago for $40, shows a lovely nose of wax, stone and yellow plum, leading to supple apple, honey and mineral notes. It's beautifully balanced, with a long, nutty aftertaste. I rate it 92 points, non-blind.
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