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Greek wine is still struggling for respect, but there are some really tasty, food-friendly values to be had, if you're brave enough to work through the tongue-twisting names.
Recently I was dining at Kefi on New York's Upper West Side. Run by chef and co-owner Michael Psilakis, it's a very casual, noisy, rapid-turnover restaurant that finds itself packed most nights. All those under-$20 entrées probably help. The Greek food is classic, fresh and thoroughly delicious, and this white was a perfect starter with a mélange of grilled sausages, meatballs, calamari and various dips.
The producer is Nasiakos, the grape is Moschofilero and the region Mantinia. From vines grown on volcanic soils, the resulting wine is creamy in texture but fresh, with bright citrus, green plum and chamomile notes backed by a stony, tarragon-tinged finish. At just $36 a bottle on the list, it's hard to beat value-wise too. 88 points for me, non-blind.
WineSpectator.com members: Get the original blind-tasting review for Nasiakos Moschofilero Mantinia 2007 (87, $16 at retail)
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