Some longtime friends joined us last week for a mid-winter Gran Bollito Misto feast at Poggio, a very good Northern Italian restaurant in Sausalito, Calif. We knew we wanted a soft red to drink with the main course of boiled beef, chicken, oxtail and sausage, but first we needed a nice crisp white. That's what would be best with some fairly rich antipasti and a terrific pasta, cappelli di prete con testa di maiale, little bulbous ravioli filled with pork head meat in a sauce of pistachios and fennel honey.
I found an old friend on the wine list. I knew Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina 2007 ($36) had the crisp balance to cut through the unctuous pasta, the vivid fruit flavors to wake up our palates and the polished texture to make it all sing happily. It's one of my go-to Italian whites, and it did not disappoint, a faint tropical fruit character adding extra charm to the zingy citrus and mineral flavors that characterize the grape. 90 points, non-blind.