For my birthday, my husband took me for the first time to Hundred Acres, a restaurant run by the owners of Cookshop and Five Points—two of our New York favorites—in the same seasonal, farm-fresh vein. It was a clear, mild summer evening, a joy after an unusually long string of thunderstorm-drenched days, and we sat in the front room by the doors opened onto MacDougal Street, a fresh breeze wafting in.
The weather just begged for a plate of sweet, juicy Barron Point oysters (from Washington) to start the meal. And the short but interesting list of wines by the glass offered a classic match: a Muscadet, at $9. Crisp and tangy, the straightforward Domaine de la Tourmaline Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2007 offered a long, minerally finish that melded perfectly with the briny liquor of the oysters. I'd give the wine on its own 86 points, non-blind, but the match was outstanding.
This Loire Valley white, made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, doesn't frequently make it into my wine repertoire, even though most are affordably priced. But this pairing served as a reminder that sometimes it's worth revisiting the classics.