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Editor at large Harvey Steiman joined Wine Spectator in 1983; his tasting beats are Australia, Oregon and Washington.
Harvey Steiman

A Bright Young Burgundy

Lucien Camus-Bruchon Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Gravains 2005

Harvey Steiman
Posted: March 2, 2009

Much as I love Burgundy, high prices have scared me off in recent years, especially when I can cherry-pick favorite Pinot Noirs from my regular tastings of Oregon and New Zealand. But it's always worth checking in on the motherland, and when a friend urged me to try the Camus-Bruchon Premier Cru Savigny-Gravains 2005 (as it appears on the label), I took a bottle with me to dinner at Le Zinc, a French bistro in my San Francisco neighborhood.

At $34, it's moderately priced for good Burgundy, and from a reliable producer who has been around for years. Aux Gravains is a premier cru vineyard on the way out of the village of Savigny-lès-Beaune toward Bouilland. This part of the appellation often makes crisp, lively wines, and this fit the description. The zingy first taste showed enough acidity to balance neatly with my Provençale-style fava bean ravioles and my black cod in stone-ground mustard sauce. Successive sips (and glasses) got smoother and richer, deepening the raspberry and chalk flavors with hints of currant and decadent flowers. 87 points, non-blind.

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