The 2005 vintage of red Burgundy was excellent, and I wanted to have some to enjoy 20 years down the road. I bought as much as I could afford, but I also bought at all quality levels.
First of all, in years like 2009, 2005 and 1999, when Burgundy enjoys a warm growing season, regional wines like Bourgogne get ripe and can be delicious from the best growers. Secondly, these wines are good barometers for gauging when the higher-level wines will be ready to enjoy.
I hadn’t tried a 2005 in some time, so I opened a bottle of Bourgogne Rouge Les Bons Batons from Ghislaine Barthod ($36). Limpid garnet in color, it offered beautiful aromas of cherry, currant and violet, all very pure. On the palate, it was ripe and supple, with red and black fruit flavors holding court, backed by a firm yet harmonious structure. Overall, it was concentrated and long, but silky and not at all heavy. 90 points, non-blind.
Though this is drinking well and hitting its peak, I may wait another year or two before opening a village-level or premier cru red Burgundy.
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