Last month, I decided to check out the recently opened Winston’s Champagne Bar, adjacent to the trendy Gansevoort Park Hotel (and conveniently across the street from Wine Spectator’s offices). A glass of bubbly seemed like a great way to welcome the weekend after a long week.
The place was decidedly swanky, with dark lighting, plush fabrics, a sparkling chandelier and prime real-estate dedicated to a canary yellow piano. (“Not Veuve Clicquot yellow,” a staff member noted.) But I caught it at a quiet moment—it’s more of a late-night scene than an after-work watering hole.
This gave us the full attention of our server—always a bonus—but we didn’t need help to pick a good glass of Champagne. I opted for a solid favorite, the Deutz Brut Champagne Classic NV, which I enjoy for its consistent minerally note, firm structure and appealing aromatic profile of apple blossom and apricot. I rated it 90 points, non-blind, and it was offered for $20 a glass.
Winston’s by-the-glass offerings are limited to five to six brut Champagnes and five to six brut rosés, with a mix that leans more toward grower Champagnes, such as my colleague’s glass of the Godmé Père & Fils Brut Rosé Champagne NV ($27 per glass). But there are plenty of Champagne’s big houses in the mix, particularly among the by-the-bottle offerings, and if you’ve got the bank account, Winston’s will find you the perfect bottle of Champagne to go with it.
Winston’s Champagne Bar
Gansevoort Park Avenue Hotel
Address: 420 Park Ave S., New York, N.Y. 10016
WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review for Deutz Brut Champagne Classic NV (90 points, $41).
• Plus, get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated non-vintage Champagnes.