It never fails. Every year, in July and August, as I approach my deadline for my annual Rhône report, the samples just seem to come in faster than I can keep up. There’s a two-week stretch right near the end where I have to taste two flights a day, every day, to get through them all.
At the end of it, I need a palate cleanser, a vinous pick-me-up. I stopped by Barcibo, one of my usual neighborhood spots, and this bracing white from northwestern Italy’s Valle d’Aosta DOC fit the bill perfectly.
Produced by a cooperative of growers from the communes of Morgex and La Salle, the Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle bottling is made from the Prié Blanc grape (called Bernarde in the Valais region of Switzerland where it is also found). This wine provided a nice, bracing beam of lemon zest and fleur de sel notes up front, with citrus oil and floral hints on the finish. It was brisk enough to cut through a day’s worth of red Rhône tannins and lively enough to match well with a bowl of cured olives and selection of crostini. 88 points, non-blind. At $11 by the glass, it was easy to order a refill too.
Cave du Vin Blanc de Morgex & de la Salle Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle Valleé d'Aoste 2010 label
Louis Barash — New York, NY — October 8, 2012 6:58pm ET
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