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Executive editor Thomas Matthews joined Wine Spectator in 1988. His tasting beat is Spain.
Thomas Matthews

Trying an Ancient Grape at a New Wine Bar

Domaine Nebout Saint-Pourçain 2009

Thomas Matthews
Posted: July 14, 2011

Vin sur Vingt, a new wine bar in Greenwich Village, offers a compact selection of French wines and a short menu of salads and sandwiches. It is clearly a labor of love for young owner Sebastien Auvet, and promises to be a fine addition to this relaxed New York neighborhood.

I stopped in with a friend early in the evening, and we had the small, cozy room mostly to ourselves. We worked our way through several of the wines by the glass ($10 to $15 for very generous pours, in fine stemware) and snacked on a selection of charcuterie from D’Artagnan ($22).

The most interesting selection was a Domaine Nebout Saint-Pourçain 2009 ($10 by the glass/$40 for a bottle). Saint-Pourçain is located in the remote upper Loire Valley, in the very heart of France. It became an appellation only in 2009, but grows an ancient grape named Sacy (known as Tressallier in the region). Julien Nebout is a third-generation Saint-Pourçain winemaker, and his domaine farms about 100 acres of vineyards. According to importer Michael Skurnik Wines, this white is 100 percent Tressallier.

I found the wine delightful. A soft gold in color, it was very fragrant, offering floral, Jonagold apple and light herbal flavors. It was medium-bodied and silky on the palate, but kept lively by crisp acidity. A generous white with plenty of backbone. I rated it 88 points, non-blind.

Vin Sur Vingt
201 West 11th St., New York 10014
Telephone: (212) 924-4442
Website: www.vinsur20nyc.com

Morewine Bishar
Del Mar, California —  July 14, 2011 5:36pm ET

I love encountering new and previously unheard of wine varietals. Sounds like a fun discovery.

David Clark
for The Wine Connection
Thomas Matthews
New York City —  July 14, 2011 5:40pm ET

We share that love!

It's one of the perks of living in a place like New York City. Wine buffs open wine bars that explore every nook and cranny of the wine world.

Thomas Matthews

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