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Managing editor Kim Marcus joined Wine Spectator in 1988. His tasting beats include Austria, Greece, southern France and Portugal.
Kim Marcus

A Fine Red for a Brasserie Meal

Gabriel Meffre Gigondas Laurus 2006

Kim Marcus
Posted: June 24, 2011

There will always be Paris (well, almost). That’s the atmosphere that lingers in the dining room of L’Absinthe on Manhattan’s Upper East Side. With an interior design inspired by the Belle Epoque, it offers the next best thing to an evening in a Parisian brasserie on this side of the Atlantic.

So it was on a recent night that I found myself dining with my wife and a group of friends at L’Absinthe. I decided to stick to tradition: I ordered snails as an appetizer and duck confit for the entrée. We drank through a bottle of rosé and next up came a bottle of Gabriel Meffre Gigondas Laurus 2006. This blend of Grenache and Syrah proved a good match for the crisp, rich duck. The wine was made by a producer with a pioneering reputation for quality in Gigondas, a district in the Southern Rhône that produces hearty reds. The ’06 Laurus fit the role to a tee. It was ripe and mature tasting, featuring dark plum, beef and spice flavors. I rated it 89 points, non-blind, and it cost $75 off the wine list. A fine match for a Gallic trip down memory lane in the Big Apple.

WineSpectator.com members: Read the original blind-tasting review and the retrospective tasting note for Gabriel Meffre Gigondas Laurus 2006 (91 points, $25 on release).

• Plus, get scores and tasting notes for more recently rated reds from France's Gigondas appellation.

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